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. (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1..

IIVLE. BRUCE...

Pattern Charts for Use in Cutting Dresses. No. 229,O88. Patented June 22,1880.

INVENlTUR A'ITTUBNEYS N-PEI'EBS, PHOTO-LlTl-IOGHAFMER. WASmNGToN. D C.

no Model.) ZSheets-Sheet 2. M. E. BRUCE.

Patt-rnflharts for Use in Cutting 'Dresses..

7 No. 229,088. Patented June 22,1880.

ATTORNEYS N-FETERS, PHQTO-UTHOGRAFNER WASHINGTON, B. Q

' EUNIT D STATES PATENT 01mins.

' MARY E. BRUCE, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

PATTERN-CHART FOR USE IN CUTTING DRESSES.

SPEGIFICQTIQN forming part of Letters Patent No. 229,088, dated June 22, 18 80,

Application filed March 9, 1880. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, MARY E. BRUCE, of

New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful. Improvements in Pattern-Charts for Cutting Dresses; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the construction and operation of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawings, making a part of this specification, and to the letters and figures of ref' erence marked thereon.

This invention has relation to pattern-charts and patterns for laying off appropriate lines upon the material from which ladies dresses are to be out; and it consists in the improved features of construction hereinafter fully described, and particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l is a plan of the pattern-chart for laying oft the neck and shoulder lines; Fig. 2, the curve to form the shape of the material to fit under the arm 5 Fig. 3, the curve. to form the bias in the back, and Fig. 4 a plan view of the rule. Figs. 5 and 6 represent the material marked out ready to be out. p

In order to lay out the front portion of the dress a piece of material to form the lining (or if no lining is needed the lines may be drawn directly upon the material itself) of sufficient size to be folded and form a double thickness is used. In this instance, let the person to be fitted measure thirty inchesaround the bust. It has been found that the correlative waistmeasure for a bust of this size would be twenty inches, or one-third less than the bust-measure.

The pattern-chart A, Fig. 1, is first placed upon the upper left-hand corner of the material, so that the straight edge of the patternchart A will' rest upon the edge of the lefthand side of the material, as shown in Fig. 5 of the drawings. The pattern-chart is pushed up along this line until the upper edge of the material intersects the graduation marked 30 on the small scale upon the upper curved portion of the pattern-chart marked front win g, A, and the edge of the goods is marked at this point with the chalk to indicate the point a Where the curve of the neck and shoulder line intersect. While the pattern-chart is still in this position upon the material mark off at to,

opposite the graduation 30 on the straight edge of the upper or front wing, and mark 0 at 30 on the lower straight edge of the front wing, A, of the pattern-chart. The left-hand edge of the pattern-chart A is nicked out at .A and the material is also marked at this lel to the line a b and an inch above it will allow sufficient material for the seam.

The curve for the neck is formed at the up perleft-hand edge of the material, and is drawn by placing the outer edge of the short curve on the back of the rule 1), Fig. 4., at the end of the shoulder-line (indicated by point a) and the inner edge or point, cl, of the curve on the front edge of the goods at the chalkanark c: The curved pattern-chart or arm-size B is next placed upon the material so that the points b 0 will be in the curved slot 13 of the pattern chart and the scale-graduation 30 at the upper end of the slot come opposite the point I), and the round bulge of the pattern-chart rest against the point 0. A chalk-line is then drawn in the slot from the 30 graduation to the extreme end of the slot, and its limit indicated by the dot d. We next locate the position of the waistline by measuring seven inches down from the lowest point, f,'on the arm-curve,a1'1d draw in the trial-line for the waist by placing the butt or broad end of the rule against the left-hand edge and sliding it along until the straight edge of therule passes through the last-named measurement of seven inches from the bottom of armcurve. With the rule in this position the trial-line g h for the waist is drawn.

Tolocate the points ortips of the darts, measure three and one-half inches above the line 9 h, and place the curved edge of the rule up, with the butt or larger end against the left-hand edge of the material. The point i upon the short curve of the rule will be brought upon the three-and-a-half-inch measurement, and determine the position of the point t in Fig. 5, and a chalk-mark made directly 0pposite the dot K on the rule will indicate the point It on the material. The straight edge of I the rule D has four dots, l m n o, marked upon be ten inches.

it to lay out the position of the two darts, which are transferred to the waist-line at l m n 0, and these points are connected with the points 1' is by curved lines drawn with the lower curve, D of the rule.

The waist-measurement being twenty inches, we next mark off on the waist with the rule one-half of the waist-measurement, which will In order to get the proper spring over the hip a dart is taken out under the arm of about four inches, which has to be allowed on waist-measurement on the triallinegh, so that one-half, or two inches, of which must be added to the ten inches already laid off on the trial waist-line at 00. In order to locate the position of the true waist-line add one and a halfinch below the waist-line proper on the front edge of the lining or material. Then draw a straight line, 1) h, from the last measurement, or two-inch added measurement, of the waistline to the one and one-half inch on the front or left-hand edge below trial waistline, as above stated.

To lay down the seam-line (1 h, which joins the front onto the back, draw a line from the end of the curve of arm-size down to the twelve inch measurement, or length of the waist. It must be observed that sufiicient width should be allowed opposite the border for seams on the side and on the shoulder.

The extension of the lining for the basque is formed by continuing the line (1 h and drawing the base-line of basque q 4" parallel with the true or inclined line 19 h of waist.

To the left of the point as on the base-line is laid off a measurement of two inches, at z, to compensate for the two inches marked off to the right of the point 00.

From the point f, at the extreme lower edge of the curve under the arm, draw a line through a point midway between the points we and extended down to the base-line q r of basque at 8. Then draw converging lines from or and z tof, and from 00 andz to s, to the ends of the central line, f s. The diamond-shaped piece between these lines is then out out, so that their edges are brought together to form the spring for the hip and bust, and compensate for the two inches added to the waist-line measurement of ten inches.

The above description completes the operation for forming the front.

To form the back, as shown in Fig. 6, the pattern-chart Ais placed upon the edge of the material as for the front. Then on the curved slot marked neck A dot the upper edge of the material at 30, and upon the upper edge of back win g, A, opposite the graduation 30, mark the material, and also mark the material opposite the graduation 30 on the lower edge of the back wing, A The pattern-chart A may then be removed andaline drawn from the first or neck dot A to the middle or upper end of arm-curve dot at B. Then use the lower curve of the rule D to form the arm-curve B O. From the lowest dot, 0, measure seven inches down to determine the position of the waist-line, and draw in the waist-line at right angles to the front edge, as in the front piece, so that the waist-line will intersect with the point D, measured seven inches below the bottom of armcurve. Measure four inches from the edge of the waist-line upon the left side, which will fall upon the point D, and draw a straight line from the lower end of the arm-curve O to intersect with it, and a paralle? line with it at sufficient distance to allow of material to form the seam.

To form the bias in the back place the biasform C, Fig. 3, so that its pointed end will rest about an inch from the lower end of armcurve at F, and the outer edge of the former upon the waist-line about one and a half inch from the edge E of the lining to the point Gr. To form the basque this line is drawn straight down to H, a sufiicient distance to correspond with the depth of the basque as determined by the front.

The spring over the hip at the seam between the front and back is formed by placing the straight edge of the rule on the dot for the neck at A, and also at the point of intersection between the waist-line and the seam-line at D in. the diagram, Fig. 6, and is extended to the bottom of the basque at D. A sufficient amount of material is left outside the line D D to form the seam.

The triangular piece J, between the lines E G H, is cut out from the material, and the bias in the back is cut away from the extreme back on the line F G. An elongated piece, K, that corresponds in length with the depth of the basque, and measures about one and one-half inch at the upper and three inches at the lower end, may be fitted in immediately below the extreme back to give the proper spring to the basque around the hips.

I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent 1. The herein-described pattern-chart A, having the front wing, A, notch A neck-slot A and back wing, A, adapted for use in cutting dresses, as set forth.

2. The herein-described pattern chart or arm-size B, curved, as shown, and provided with the curved slot B, adapted for use in cutting the arm-holes in dresses, as set forth.

3. The herein-described pattern chart or rule D, having curve D point d, and dots 2'70 1 m n 0, adapted for use in cutting dresses, as set forth.

4. The combination of the pattern-charts A B D, constructed as described and shown, and the pattern 0, adapted for use in cutting dresses, as set forth.

In testimony that I claim the above I have hereunto subscribed my name in the presence of two witnesses.

Witnesses: MARY E. BRUCE.

ROBERT EVERETT, JAMES J. SHEEHY.

IIO 

